About Me

My photo
When i left school back then i was lucky enough to enroll on an engineering apprenticeship. I think this lead me in good stead. I was always one of those children that pulled things apart but actually put them back together again. My first engine given to me at the age of Seven, a Triang Princess Elizabeth. The rest as they say is History. Later in life i got back in to Model Railways and started building Pine Road. This could lead anywhere so i hope you enjoy my Blog.

Sunday, 31 May 2020

station building quick update.

Just a quick update on progress.

Station building, oil lighting.

A bit more done on the station building. Lighting has been installed, now we can finish the roof.
I have used yellow LEDs to try a get a nice oil lamp tybe of glow. Now you know why i have been so picky with the interior.
The flooring has also been fitted.

Saturday, 30 May 2020

"Sprat & Winkle" couplings, and RTR

Not a bad afternoons progress.
All my stock is fitted with "Sprat & Winkle" couplings. I use the 3/4mm finescale variety. I find these the best option for "handsfree" operation. They don't like curves of less than 4ft radius to perform correctly, hence why i only fit the "hook" to one end.
This is fine with kit built stock, as attaching a hook to one end of a locomotive is easy, just solder the Two pivot pins behind the buffer beam.
RTR is somewhat different, nothing to solder to.
However, there are ways and means.
Dapol's B4 has a "Masak" chassis so was able to drill Two holes for the pins, glued in with Super glue.
The front end was  problem but hopeing this will be ok as we will only be pulling a few wagons. Just glued the bar behind the buffer beam.
Kernow's 02 has a very similar arrangement. On the front, remove the big black plasticky coupling, there is a threaded studd, this will need to be removed. Drill two holes for the paddle and two more for the bar. Do not go right through. 
Oxford's Radial is a doddle. Again, Two holes for the paddle and Two for the bar.
The front is an issue. The front bar is going to be pulling trains, we can't drill so another aporoach is needed.
The photo should make it clear. I bent the bar so it would stretch between the Cylinder and the back of the buffer beam, it gives a larger surface area to glue.
After painting matt black i hope its not going to be to obvious, its better than a great big black plasticky thing sticking out the front.
Anything with a bogie, there is not enough room for the paddle/hook hence why some hooks are on the front.
Its all a bit fiddly but well worth the effort.

Thursday, 28 May 2020

Dapol Adams B4

I bought one, begining to wish i had bought one of the first batch, No 88.
Its a superb runner straight out of the box and compares nicely to my kitbuilt one.
It will be fitted with a decoder kit from Youchoose.

Tuesday, 26 May 2020

Mullions and window frames

We are ready for windows. After making the Mullions, and tending to make it up as one goes along, how are we going to make the window frames for the mullions ?
Cutting a piece of 0.5mm perspex the size of the windows.
Holding it in place behind the window with a couple of strips of masking tape, i scored a line around the window frames....
Using the scored line as a guide, i cut some strips of Scotch "Magic tape" white (the type you can write on) and stuck these just wider than the score line.
I then made a frame on the reverse side of this, using plasticard and painted it with Humbrol 76 Green.
Hopefully, you get the idea, this makes good for the inside.
Glue to the inside of the window frame and you should end up with something like this.
And the inside...
Very fiddly but the second window looks better than the first, learning as we go.

Monday, 25 May 2020

Dc and DCC

I won't get in to the argument of whether Dc is better than DCC, although some seem to be adement about this without even giving it ago.
The myth that i wanted to bust is the one that says "if it won't run on dc, it won't run any better on DCC.
I've had Three engines now that have all ran better on DCC. The Hornby Peckett, Kernow and there Adams 02 and the Hornby Sentinall.
Non ran partiqularly smoothly on Dc but are outstanding on DCC. All have been fitted with Zimo decoders.
Have you ever seen an 02 or a sentinal run so smooth.

Charmouth (ex Easton)station building.

A bit more done to the station building.
We have doors, what a pain they were.
Road side.
Platform side
Oops, one can look right through.
Even the inside.
Its going to be a while yet.

Sunday, 24 May 2020

Easton station, thats not!

I've got a bit more done on the Station building.
I think from this point on, i can't really refer to it as being Easton, well its not is it. Although based on the structure at Easton on the Isle of Portland, its brick, not stone. Not knowing what the new layout is going to be called, Church Ope or Charmouth, i am leaning towards Charmouth.

Its progressed, we now have bricks and part of a roof.
The inside has been painted yellow/cream.
Pleased with how it is coming together. Doors and window frames next.

Sunday, 17 May 2020

Easton Station looking better.

Measure twice, cut once, thats the old phrase.
Well, second time round its looking better, we have the windows in the right place.
This is the platform side.
The toilet block or South end.
The road side.
 Not glued together yet, have doors, window frames and internal walls to be built.

Friday, 15 May 2020

Another handy gadget

I have been meaning to get one of these for a while.
Cutting out something that is round is always difficult. Windows on an Adams 02 are of the 6mm size, usually cutting 6mm squares and filing the corners off.
I bought a jewllers punch.
Includes dies from 3mm upto 15mm. Brilliant for headcode disc, windows, etc.
instant windows.

Thursday, 14 May 2020

Highlevel gearboxes how many?

Highlevel gearboxes are a bit fiddly to put together. Doing one, as and when you need one is fine, but i tend to forget how to do them. I thought, lets just sit down and spend a couple of afternoons building some.
5 of them to be precise. That should keep things running for a while.

Wednesday, 13 May 2020

A handy tool

I have found another handy tool. My old way of cutting small pieces of brass rod or tube, was to lay it on your cutting mat and using a Stanley knife rolling it back and forth until you cut through. Ok for a couple of bits but you may need 10 pieces all the same length. I found this handy tool.
I unscrewed the handle and clamped it in a vice. Oh its briliant, all these years, how did i manage.
And saw away to your hearts content.
Where did i find it? It was on ebay. Now i did find similar ones cheaper but didn't think they looked as good. They do vary in price.

I will point out that i dont know this guy or have any relation to him. Just something i found and thought, what a dam good idea.

Tuesday, 12 May 2020

Highlevel gearboxes.

Chris at Highlevel, his gearboxes are brilliant.
Just made up a gearbox for a new Adams B4. 120:1 its going to crawl.
mated to a 1420 Mashima motor. What more could you ask for.

Kernow Adams Class 02

I bought one. The Kernow Adams class 02.
I have to say that this one runs faultlessly. Not really my era but dosen't she look stunning.
yes, i am a happy bunny.

Monday, 11 May 2020

kitbuilt locomotives. Gearboxes/Motors

When building kit built locomotives, there is always the question of what gearbox/Motor to use?
I having written a list below that may help. These are the ones i use.
 Load hauler compact+ for Adams 02s and B4s.

Lo-loader for terrier or anthing driving rear axle, with fixed or compensated front axles on an 0-6-0.

Load hauler+ for M7s T1.

Gearboxes are from High level, i use 90:1 or 120:1 as i only ever build small layouts.

Mashima motors with 1.5mm shaft, 1020 with flywheel or 1420 without flywheel.

Thought i would write this down as may be usefull for future reference for others and myself.