LSWR TERRIER
Some time ago i was lucky enough to purchase an old K's Terrier kit. The kit was already built and i thought could become a good future project. The paintwork and lining on the body was superb. I could perhaps argue that the Green is a shade to light but not letting this put me off the loco was purchased. It was a none runner, fitted with a rather hefty brass chassis and Ks old XO4 type motor. Remembering that Comet (now part of Wizard Models) had produced a replacement chassis kit for the Hornby/Dapol model, i wondered if this could be fettled to fit this superbly painted model. I have since learned that Branchlines also do a chassis kit for the Terrier.
I can hear you all screaming at the screen saying "what are you on, Terriers had nothing to do with the LSWR, they are LBSCR or Brighton works locos built by Stroudley"
Your right but, in 1903 the LSWR were struggling to find something suitable to operate the Lyme Regis Branch as it was originally built with 60lb rail.
Two were subsequently bought and shipped to Eastleigh under the cover of darkness for a repaint. One became 734 and 735 they were both different in a few ways.
There is a whole section devoted to these Two engines in 'LSWR Locomotives, The Drummond Classes by D.L.Bradley.
Below is No. 734 as it was bought from an exhibition
This is the Chassis and motor that was fitted from the kit. Things have moved on at a pace lately
All Four all folded up ready to be soldered into the frames.
Well, you didn't think you were going to get away with no soldering at all, did you?
Two completed Connecting rods.
And the knuckle suitably riveted.
This then bring us to the chassis itself, vital that we keep everything true and square. Can my Pine Road Models Chassis Jig be used to set up Hornblocks? The answer is, Yes well, this is how i managed to do it. (it may be worth pointing out here that i only have 7 left, there wont be anymore)
You will need that piece of ply that you set the Connecting rods up on.
Have the pins so they are just protruding through the jig.......
One soldered chassis.
I have included the photo below so you don't make the same mistake as me, well, I'm only human. Make sure you solder the Hornblocks in straight, the Two on the left are not quite vertical, since been resolved.
Sitting on her chassis she is beginning to look the part.
And she runs.
I can hear you all screaming at the screen saying "what are you on, Terriers had nothing to do with the LSWR, they are LBSCR or Brighton works locos built by Stroudley"
Your right but, in 1903 the LSWR were struggling to find something suitable to operate the Lyme Regis Branch as it was originally built with 60lb rail.
Two were subsequently bought and shipped to Eastleigh under the cover of darkness for a repaint. One became 734 and 735 they were both different in a few ways.
There is a whole section devoted to these Two engines in 'LSWR Locomotives, The Drummond Classes by D.L.Bradley.
Below is No. 734 as it was bought from an exhibition
This is the Chassis and motor that was fitted from the kit. Things have moved on at a pace lately
Me being me, i though i would have a go at compensation. To be honest i have never really seen the point in it but, before i make any statements or claims i should really try it for myself, its one of those situations, because you can!
Not really knowing what i am doing, well, sort of know the basics and how its suppose to work, i set about having a go.
A phone call to Chris at High Level secured some Hornblocks a motor and gearbox for this project.
This is them, Four lovely Hornblocks, he's a clever bloke is our Chris, a doddle to make up. NO soldering.
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| Highlevel Hornblocks |
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| Highlevel Hornblocks |
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| Highlevel Hornblocks |
Well, you didn't think you were going to get away with no soldering at all, did you?
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| Highlevel Hornblocks |
Of course the next problem we have is the Connecting rods, they have to be split, if axles are to move independantly of each with each other we are going to need some articulation in the Connecting rods. Sir Isaac Newton would be proud of me at this point.
Taking a piece of rather solid looking Plywood, 4 holes were drilled using the Connecting rod from the kit that isn't yet split
And the knuckle suitably riveted.
This then bring us to the chassis itself, vital that we keep everything true and square. Can my Pine Road Models Chassis Jig be used to set up Hornblocks? The answer is, Yes well, this is how i managed to do it. (it may be worth pointing out here that i only have 7 left, there wont be anymore)
You will need that piece of ply that you set the Connecting rods up on.
Have the pins so they are just protruding through the jig.......
.......and turn it on its side, making sure the pins are located in the holes in the ply. Place one chassis frame and hornblocks over the pins and place a coupling rod on top of the pins. Solder away to your hearts content, do the same with the other frame, not forgetting that they are 'handed'.
You can then solder the frames together in the usual manner.
Not bad for an Eighty quid jig! eh.
One soldered chassis.
The brake gear and Mashima motor has been fitted.
This brings us pretty much up to date in the project.The brake shoes are made from slivers of Nickel silver, i have never seen such big brake shoes as No 734 were fitted.
I used 247 Developments Brake hangers, the Comet ones just look huge.
Sitting on her chassis she is beginning to look the part.
And she runs.
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