LSWR Terrier project continues

Lswr Terrier.

Where are we at?

 The beginning of the cab interior, i'm sort of making this up as im going along.

This is the floor, a spare piece i had from an 02.

The backhead, water tanks and gauges, made up from various pieces of brass tubing, wire and plastikard. 

Not that you can see much of it when installed in the Terrier.

The other thing that needed attention was the glazing. How the hell do you cut such small circle from acetate sheet ? 

I had a piece of brass tube turned to the right size, sharpened one end and placed it on the sheet, a good clout from a hammer gave me 4 windows the right size.

Always the inventor!

She could do with a dust.

Well, there we have it, all we need is a nice Edwardian crew just to finish her off.

This has been an interesting project, i have enjoyed bringing an old kit built loco back to life, one loco that will be treasured for many years to come.

I think what makes this a more interesting project is the fact that there was only ever Two of these, sort of makes it special.

The next project, keep an eye out for the H13 Railmotor.

Lswr Terrier chassis running

I was testing the chassis today for my Lswr Terrier. It runs well, i have adjusted the picks ups since the first video was made.

If i have time, the body will go on tomorrow.

Bearing in mind this is just the chassis and no weight added, i think this runs well.

I have just uploaded another video with the coupling rods soldered and pick ups adjusted.

Basically, i am pleased, i often wondered if compensation was really necessary, Have you laid your track badly? anything to guarantee electrical continuity has to be a good thing, Yes! personal preference i think. With me, its one of those situations where, 'because you can'.

Would i do it again? umm, probably yes.

It does run very smoothly and this is without any running in etc.

A Test Track

I thought it was high time that i had a 'Test Track' nothing fancy, just a length of track to test stuff on.

I should be adding details to Exton Quay 

Exton Quay

or, finishing my Lswr Terrier, like adding balance weights, painting the wheels and putting it all back together. 

Lswr Terrier

Anyhow, as i say a test track, nothing fancy! 

Scrounging a piece of ply from work (shhhh) 4ft long by 100 mill wide, i have a test track, but nothing fancy.

   As any modelist knows, things in this business can get somewhat out of hand.

I know, i could add a crossover to test rolling stock through pointwork, it would be a good idea to make it switchable between DC and DCC as Parkstone is DCC, i wouldn't have to set up the layout to test locos. I could add a programme track that can be switched in and out to set up DCC chipped locos.

I take lots of photos as well, of anything i build, mainly to post up here for all you modelists to gawp at. We could add a spot of plantage, ballast the track and paste a length of Backscene to the wall behind.

But nothing fancy! 

After asking many people, What is the definition of 'Finescale'?

I have another question

What is the definition of a layout?

OH DEAR, i said nothing fancy, Really!

There is of course one other good thing that has come out of this, my workbench is spotless, everything has a home and in its place.

I will enjoy while it lasts.

Test Track

Well, its definitely a Test Track, its tested me. I have used the new Peco Bullhead Finescale (that word again) track and Two points, not sure i will buy anymore, boy they are expensive, i was working on the assumption that if stock runs through these it should run through anything including the ones i build. 

One thing of note with this track, the rail had jumped out of the chairs in a couple of places.

Track duly laid, how are we going to wire all this up.

Lots of bits of paper and a lot of head scratching later, i finally worked it out.

Below is my sketch, if you can work it out, it does work.

Wiring Diagram

You will need Three DPDT switches to make it work. As i have an NCE Power Cab controller, you could replace switch 1 with one of their Auto Switches, but at about 14 quid, nah.

I have used an extra switch to change the frog polarity for the points

The control panel itself, it works YEAH! no smoke and nothing went bang.

DC/DCC control panel

So, back to the layout, sorry, meant to say 'Test track'

An all in one piece of track to test carriages, wagons, Dc locos, Dcc locos, programme locos, take photos in a scenic surrounding.

Not bad for a weekends work.

test track

test track

test track

 I've had this bag of lichen (rubberised horse hair) for years, know one really uses it any more, its a bit old hat now but, hey found a use for it, just finishes of the edge a treat.

So, there we are, no EXCUSES now for things not to run properly 

LSWR Old Ks Terrier kit

LSWR TERRIER

Some time ago i was lucky enough to purchase an old K's Terrier kit. The kit was already built and i thought could become a good future project. The paintwork and lining on the body was superb. I could perhaps argue that the Green is a shade to light but not letting this put me off the loco was purchased. It was a none runner, fitted with a rather hefty brass chassis and Ks old XO4 type motor. Remembering that Comet (now part of Wizard Models) had produced a replacement chassis kit for the Hornby/Dapol model, i wondered if this could be fettled to fit this superbly painted model. I have since learned that Branchlines also do a chassis kit for the Terrier.
I can hear you all screaming at the screen saying "what are you on, Terriers had nothing to do with the LSWR, they are LBSCR or Brighton works locos built by Stroudley"
Your right but, in 1903 the LSWR were struggling to find something suitable to operate the Lyme Regis Branch as it was originally built with 60lb rail.
Two were subsequently bought and shipped to Eastleigh under the cover of darkness for a repaint. One became 734 and 735 they were both different in a few ways.
There is a whole section devoted to these Two engines in 'LSWR Locomotives, The Drummond Classes by D.L.Bradley.

 Below is No. 734 as it  was bought from an exhibition

This is the Chassis and motor that was fitted from the kit. Things have moved on at a pace lately

Me being me, i though i would have a go at compensation. To be honest i have never really seen the point in it but, before i make any statements or claims i should really try it for myself, its one of those situations, because you can!

Not really knowing what i am doing, well, sort of know the basics and how its suppose to work, i set about having a go.

A phone call to Chris at High Level secured some Hornblocks a motor and gearbox for this project.

This is them, Four lovely Hornblocks, he's a clever bloke is our Chris, a doddle to make up. NO soldering.

Highlevel Hornblocks

Highlevel Hornblocks

Highlevel Hornblocks 

All Four all folded up ready to be soldered into the frames.
Well, you didn't think you were going to get away with no soldering at all, did you? 

Highlevel Hornblocks

  Of course the next problem we have is the Connecting rods, they have to be split, if axles are to move independantly of each with each other we are going to need some articulation in the Connecting rods. Sir Isaac Newton would be proud of me at this point.

Taking a piece of rather solid looking Plywood, 4 holes were drilled using the Connecting rod from the kit that isn't yet split

Two completed Connecting rods.

And the knuckle suitably riveted.

This then bring us to the chassis itself, vital that we keep everything true and square. Can my Pine Road Models Chassis Jig be used to set up Hornblocks? The answer is, Yes well, this is how i managed to do it. (it may be worth pointing out here that i only have 7 left, there wont be anymore)
You will need that piece of ply that you set the Connecting rods up on.
Have the pins so they are just protruding through the jig.......

.......and turn it on its side, making sure the pins are located in the holes in the ply. Place one chassis frame and hornblocks over the pins and place a coupling rod on top of the pins. Solder away to your hearts content, do the same with the other frame, not forgetting that they are 'handed'.

You can then solder the frames together in the usual manner.

Not bad for an Eighty quid jig! eh.

One soldered chassis.

I have included the photo below so you don't make the same mistake as me, well, I'm only human. Make sure you solder the Hornblocks in straight, the Two on the left are not quite vertical, since been resolved.

The brake gear and Mashima motor has been fitted.

This brings us pretty much up to date in the project.The brake shoes are made from slivers of  Nickel silver, i have never seen such big brake shoes as No 734 were fitted.

I used 247 Developments  Brake hangers, the Comet ones just look huge.

Sitting on her chassis she is beginning to look the part.

And she runs.