All my stock is fitted with "Sprat & Winkle" couplings. I use the 3/4mm finescale variety. I find these the best option for "handsfree" operation. They don't like curves of less than 4ft radius to perform correctly, hence why i only fit the "hook" to one end.
This is fine with kit built stock, as attaching a hook to one end of a locomotive is easy, just solder the Two pivot pins behind the buffer beam.
However, there are ways and means.
Dapol's B4 has a "Masak" chassis so was able to drill Two holes for the pins, glued in with Super glue.
The front end was problem but hopeing this will be ok as we will only be pulling a few wagons. Just glued the bar behind the buffer beam.
Kernow's 02 has a very similar arrangement. On the front, remove the big black plasticky coupling, there is a threaded studd, this will need to be removed. Drill two holes for the paddle and two more for the bar. Do not go right through.
Oxford's Radial is a doddle. Again, Two holes for the paddle and Two for the bar.
The front is an issue. The front bar is going to be pulling trains, we can't drill so another aporoach is needed.
The photo should make it clear. I bent the bar so it would stretch between the Cylinder and the back of the buffer beam, it gives a larger surface area to glue.
After painting matt black i hope its not going to be to obvious, its better than a great big black plasticky thing sticking out the front.
Anything with a bogie, there is not enough room for the paddle/hook hence why some hooks are on the front.
Its all a bit fiddly but well worth the effort.
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